Time...
We're in a (very) small village visiting some relatives of Anastasia. We declined a meal of stewed rabbit in tomato and spices, perhaps unwisely. So far they made us consume five different kinds of sweets, four kinds of fruit, two kinds of cheese dumplings, and the local strong spirit. Mercy!
Apart from sharing the Greek stereotypes of exhausting hospitality and mistrust of Turkish people, these relatives seem to be very reasonable and likeable humans. I'm unused to people's 70-80 year old relatives being like that. My pet theory is that coming from a down-to-earth leftwing background has something to do with it.
Time...
We returned the car, amazingly, still in the same overall shape as it was given by the factory (we've also carefully avoided running over any pedestrians for the entire trip, despite some great jumping pedestrian stunts). We're now in sleeping bags, on uncomfortable deck benches, on a ferry to the mainland. It is too warm, smells of exhaust, too bright, and quite noisy. Must sleep, or I'll be asleep at Sophie in London tomorrow.
There is no cellular coverage. I feel like Apollo crews briefly did. We should pass a transmitter on top of Milos island in the middle of the night, so I may be able to connect. What a quick addiction! Iridium was the way, you small-minded capitalists!
Next day...
Update: I spoke too soon. Coverage was not the problem - billing was. Now online again and able to post.
Pavlos